Today was a highlight of my trip. I rented a motorbike for myself. It brought me freedom, adventure, and encounters with the locals.
It was a beautiful morning with lots of sun amidst many clouds. The cool breeze blew by my face. I road north like my guide did yesterday, but made a slight detour to the northeast into the moutainside windy roads. I only saw a handful of motorists over the course of an hour. It was just me, nature, and the open road.
Greater forces were at work in the afternoon. I had brought Urim and Thummim along today. I thought they might come in handy. I had several options of where to go with my motorbike.
Urim and Thummim are two stones referenced in the book The Alchemist, by Paulo Coehlo. The boy, the main character, goes on a quest and uses the stones to help him make difficult decisions. Thummim, the black stone, means yes, and Urim, the white stone, means no. My girlfriend, a big fan of Paulo Coehlo, gave me two replica stones, before I left the USA, as a helpful gift for my journey.
I debated whether to continue heading north on this beautiful open road, or turn around and head east toward the ocean. I read there was a mountain pass and lake about 40 km away (25 miles), and it would take me about an hour to get there (and an hour back). I could see dark clouds in that direction, but I thought it might be worth it. I consulted with Urim and Thummim. I reached into my pocket and pulled out one–it was Thummim. Ok, I would go.
I turned around and headed eastward to the mountain pass. It was a long ride–not as beautiful as the last one. There were more motorists and potholes and small towns. I got about 25km of the way. I felt rain drops. I stopped. I had just passed through a town. It was probably going to rain soon. Should I continue onward, or turn around and beat the storm? I called upon my stones again–and Thummim it was again. I continued on for about 5 more km.
I came to a steep cliff and turn. I stopped there next to a boy who was also stopped. I asked him if this was the mountain pass and lake. He said it was. So, I decided to take my pictures here and head back. There was no sense in driving through the pass to the lake. I saw there were large dark clouds ahead–pouring rain over the pass. I turned around and accelerated fast.
I just got back to the outskirts of the small town when it started pouring rain. I was soaking wet. I looked for the nearest overhang. I’d have to sit this one out. I had no rain coat. I saw a man standing in a simple metal home/workplace, with the sliding metal door open. I turned right onto his front space and parked next to his bike. I smiled and acted like I would simply use his overhang outside. But he invited me in for tea and conversation. It would probably be 30 minutes until the rain cleared.
We chatted about our lives and Vietnam. His name was Huy. He knew a little English. We wrote to each other on a sheet of paper because it was easier for him to read and write English. He was a good host. And he gave me three servings of tea. 30 minutes later, the rain stopped. I thanked him and headed back.
But now I had to pee–too much tea at once. There wasn’t anywhere convenient to stop. I waited until the next small town.
At the next town I looked for a place I could use the toilet. I stopped at one convenience store/home. The lady took a while to come out, and I didn’t like the body language of her greeting.
I went across the street to another convenience store/home. There were several teenagers down a staircase. They all looked at me with wonder. I guess they don’t get many tourists through here. I asked them where a toilet was and they giddled. No use.
I went up to the owner and bought a chocolate bar. Then I asked to use his toilet. He showed me the way! Yay. When I finished I hung out with the teens. They knew only a little English. We exchanged names. They checked out my bike. They gave me some plums and I gave them some pieces of my bar.
I was glad that nature guided me to these two local encounters. I would not have stopped at either if it weren’t for the rain–and Thummim.

















